Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Nancin' Around in Norway !

Well, here I am, using this blog as a procrastination tool from my studies. Nance just left yesterday and I selected to take a full vacation while she was here, making genuine productivity a challenge today. But, I suppose I am writing something, so it can be seen as an appropriate start to writing my course paper and master’s paper (both of which I ignored last week). Anyways, me and Nance had some adventures last week! I’m so glad she came to visit and that we decided to go to Norway because it’s unlikely I would have been able afford that country on my own (thanks Tom!)! WOOF.


Day 1 So, Nance arrived on a Monday and after finding her way out of the airport, we tra-la-laed back to Uppsala where she proceeded to take a very long nap. But one afternoon of jetlag was all it took, the next morning we were up and out strolling around Uppsala and eating cake. It was interesting to have a visitor to a place I do not know extremely well but proved to be an excellent opportunity for some exploration and shopping (thanks Tom!). We of course checked out the medieval cathedral and strolled around the downtown, going in and out of many little shops, stopping for tea and cake (FIKA!) and enjoying the crisp fall weather. Nance even wore shoes good enough for walking for multiple hours! We had a delightful dinner at a restaurant I would have otherwise never stepped foot in and Nance made new friends with the old Swedish couple seated next to us. It was Ove’s birthday, what a celebration!


taking pictures in church 
Fika ! 
Chillin' by the river
shopping in Uppsala for decorative napkins for Tom! 
taking a very important picture of the shopping mall

Day 2 The next day we woke up and went to Stockholm to begin our Norwegian adventure. The train ride to Oslo was stressful and stinky, as we had the poor luck of getting stuck in a car with a family with young children and a very hands-off, ‘nap while they cry,’ parenting style. It was not pleasant, but we made it to Oslo. Oslo is a very cool city- an understated cultural hub that more people should probably visit. It was expensive, so I understand it’s a bit inaccessible in that way, but I wish I had had more time there. We walked up through the center of the city, stopping at W.B. Samson for the best cinnamon roll Nance has ever had and up through the center of the city until we reached Vigeland Sculpture Park , the largest sculpture park in the world made by a single artist. Nance loved that all the sculptures were naked. By the time we reached the park, it was dark out, but the lighting and fountains were thought-provoking and interesting nonetheless. We then headed down to Aker Brygge , the wharf area with shops, restaurants and the Nobel Peace Center. Though the museum had closed, it was great to see that symbol and center of knowledge and education so central to my peacebuilding degree. We had a delicious meal and Nance discovered that no, she doesn’t hate all fish! This meal marked the beginning of a long love affair with fish soup.

Still smiling before our nightmare train ride begins! off to Oslo!

Fika! 
Vigeland Sculpture park 

Nobel Peace Center 
Day 3 We woke up in Oslo and had the most delicious Scandinavian breakfast buffet- complete with salted mackerel and tomato beans and eggs and a mini open fire grill just for bacon! Nance discovered that yogurt comes in cartons that look like milk cartons! We then got on the Bergen Railway, the most scenic and arguably the most beautiful train route cutting through the unreal scenery of Norway- complete with views of fjords, mountains, pastures and frozen lakes. We transferred to another famous railway in Myrdal, to the Flåm Railway which took us in and out of mountain tunnels until we arrived at our second overnight stop of the trip in the small fjord town of Flåm. Flåm is extremely tiny and took about 5 minutes to walk around (there was ‘The Mall of Norway’ and a nice museum about the Flåm railway). Most notably, the town did have a brewery where we enjoyed probably our favorite meal of the trip, which was, you guessed it, fish soup! But it was really really really good and we had been really really cold all day so it really spoke to us. Plus, their beer was delicious and the restaurant gave Nance ample groups of people to watch and make dinner recommendations to on the way out.

Taking some blurry pictures from the train window!
Is this real?
Waterfall stop on the Flåmbana railway
our fjord lodge in Flåm
Our hotel backyard 
The most delicious fish soup. Seriously.

We were blown away by beauty the entire day, and our overnight mountain lodge provided us with a pristine escape from what we called daily life, as we slept nestled in between several mountains and could step right out on our balcony to admire the crisp beauty of the fjords. We even caught a glimpse of the Northern Lights- nothing that lit up the entire sky as many may imagine, but some dancing green clouds and a flash of a mystical rainbow across the dark rocky silhouettes in our view.

Day 4 We woke up in our mystical setting and boarded a ‘fjord ferry’ that took us from Flåm to Gudvangen, another fjord town where we caught a bus to Voss and then a train to Bergen for our final night of the journey. The fjord cruise was about 2 hours long, cutting through glass like waters and cutting through ice as we weaved through the passages. The boat ride uses battery power to preserve the Nærøyfjord (a UNESCO world heritage site) and so the trip outside was practically silent. It was extremely cold outside, but we managed to take a few laps outside to soak in a 360 view before retreating to prevent frostbite. It was great that we were traveling in autumn, which is a bit in between seasons of the tourism there, because I could imagine the peace and tranquility of our journey being robbed by mobs of rude ass tourists.

Fjord cruise
Is this real life? 
gotta break the ice!


Our bus ride from Gudvagen to Voss was breathtaking as well, through large stretches of sheep farms and mountains dotted with the quintessential clusters of little red Norwegian houses. In Voss, we grabbed lunch and waited for our train to depart (which was late due to a workers’ strike which I need to further investigate) but eventually we hopped on and arrived in the cute ass city of Bergen, which is often referred to as the ‘Gateway to the Fjords.’ Once again, we put our stuff in the hotel, put on a fresh coat of deodorant and headed out for some exploration. A couple from Bergen that we met on the train suggested that we check out the cable cars to the top of Ulriken mountain. What a great suggestion. From the top, we happened upon a beautiful sunset, views of many fjords, and a couple glasses of wine at the oh so accommodating mountain top restaurant. We descended and had a fireside dinner at the hotel restaurant.

Day 5 We got up and went out to explore Bergen by daylight. The city is very cute, the 2nd largest in Norway, and full of historic architecture, museums and beautiful mountains. We made our way down to the Bryggen Wharf, another UNESCO world heritage site that consists of wooden medieval structures that though have burned to the ground several times, have been rebuilt with medieval patterns and methods, preserving the look of the medieval wooden urban trade center. We loved walking around little Bergen. We headed over to the Kode museums to check out the exhibition on Edvard Munch (known most for ‘The Scream’), and other famous Norwegian painters. We then headed out, back to Sweden where we spent the rest of the weekend in Stockholm.

Bryggen Wharf wooden houses 

Bergen 

Not quite sure how this pic turned out!

In Stockholm, we wandered around Gamla Stan (old town) and discovered a cafe in a building that, from our understanding, used to be an old prison. Of course we had Fika there and of course we wandered around and bought cute little things from the local artists scattered around Gamla Stan.
taking a picture of something??? 

On Sunday, we headed back to Uppsala and Nance started a series of serious cries to prepare for her departure. She graciously took me grocery shopping (thanks for the toilet paper!) and yesterday we had a final fika and ‘tea time’ before going to the airport. The week went by quickly but what a great time with Nance! Vacation is great, homework is not and so I appreciate this opportunity to recap all the fun and AMAZING things we saw during our time together traveling through Norway.


Last fika in Uppsala. Adios Nance!!!


Well, I'm back to the books,
Xoxo

Swedish Jamie

Sailin' the Baltics: Helsinki and Tallinn

Bye bye, Stockholm!
Well, before this impending darkness and coldness sets in, I was told that cruising the Baltics is a great opportunity to inexpensively visit different cities that sit on the Baltic sea. Two weeks after my jaunt to Amsterdam, I hopped on a ferry from Stockholm to Helsinki with two friends from Heller (holla!!!!). The ferry is a refurbished cruise ship from what I understand, complete with a duty free mini mall (that people went bananas for), restaurants, casinos, bars and a spa. You book a cabin that looks like the compartment for an overnight train, with pull down bunk beds. The ferry out of Stockholm was the same as my little archipelago tour that I took a few weeks back, except at sunset, so obviously I loved it. Had a good meal on board and went to sleep and woke up in Helsinki! We stayed at an airbnb with an impossibly high lofted bed and spent the day wandering around the city. We visited the fortress of Suomenlinna, yet another beautiful and impossibly old UNESCO World Heritage site. Helsinki was cool to walk around but seemed extremely quite, and almost borderline deserted. I’m not sure if it’s because we were there on a gloomy Sunday, or if that is the usual vibe. I absolutely loved the depiction of women throughout the city though- most of the statues/advertisements/posters/etc. we saw showed women as a source of strength, intelligence and power. Bodies were realistic and strong instead of emaciated and objectified as is the case in many cultures. It was refreshing to see women celebrated in these ways.

The sea fortress from the top of some hill


Helsinki sunset 


The next morning we got up and hopped on a ferry to Tallinn, the capital of Estonia. We spent the afternoon here- wandering around the old town area, which has structures dating back to the early 1200s and is yet another place preserved as a UNESCO world heritage site. Tallinn was so COOL to walk around- the buildings all medieval architecture and painted in vibrant colors. As I just read on google.com, human settlements in Tallinn date back even farther than its architecture, to over 5,000 years ago, making it one of the oldest capital cities in Northern Europe. I also just learned it’s been called “The Silicon Valley of Europe” and is the birthplace of Skype. WHO KNEW! I should’ve gone to headquarters and asked them to step up their game jaja.

This was delicious


Tallinn is so colorful!


From a viewpoint at the top of some treacherous cobblestoned paths , but cool!

Anywho- after eating some delicious food (this bomb.com goat cheese and spinach pastry thing is something I will dream of) and buying some delicious warm nuts tossed in cinnamon, we boarded our ferry back to Stockholm and settled in for a spectacular sunset (I love sunsets), cheeseburgers and facials/massages at the spa. Thank you Silja ferry!

Welp, that’s all for now. After all this recapping of fabulous adventures, I must go do my homework to I can head out in exploration again soon!

Xoxo
Swedish Jamie

Amsterdam, you're cool.

Chronologically, this was the first of my little European jaunts since I’ve last written. I had never been to Amsterdam before, but have heard about it from virtually anyone who has toured through Europe or studied abroad, as it is certainly an epicenter for partying. I traveled there sola for the first part of my trip, and then met up with one of Rodrigo’s childhood friends and brother for part of it. Our hostel was nestled in the middle of the hustle of the city, on the edge of the red light district and a few blocks away from Dam Square. While I will not even name this hostel in recommendation because it was a shit hole, it was great to be so centrally located in the middle of the city.
inside the flower market 
Amsterdam at night (duh)



A cute little Dutch breakfast


sweet 
My first night there I spent wandering around, checking out the flower market, Dam Square and went on a little canal cruise at sunset (how romantic) and was just blown away by this city of canals which was unlike anything I’d seen before (including Venice). I made friends with an Australian on the boat and we spent the night wandering around and visited the museum of prostitution. I had always heard about the red light district but was still a bit jolted by seeing it in person, and saddened by imagining the reality of those who make a living working in the sex industry. Of course I cannot claim to know this experience, I can only imagine what I would feel like that situation, it’s still hard for me to put an entirely positive or healthy spin on the industry.


Anyways, the first morning I was there I headed over to the Anne Frank House, something I had bought a ticket for weeks in advance (please do that if you plan to visit) and a site I have been looking forward to visiting for years. The museum is bare of any furniture, at the request of Otto Frank (Anne’s father) making for an appropriately somber visit and imagining of the reality of those who hide in those walls, deprived of sunlight, normalcy and access to the world. I have always been inspired by Anne Frank’s diary, in both the bravery she had to write so eloquently on topics beyond what she should have had to confront at that age, but also by the injustice of her lack of choice. The museum was a poignant homage to Anne, a heartfelt design infused with the sorrow of her father and the memories of life there during hiding.

From what I observed there that morning, the Anne Frank house has become a symbol of humanity, a physical place where tourists flock to commemorate the writer of what became a transformative piece of writing, unlike anything that had ever been published before, but was maybe lacking a sense of connection to tragedy and genocide that has persisted beyond WWII, even though the motto ‘never again’ is repeated in reference to the Holocaust. There was something odd about watching people taking selfies, smiling in front of Anne’s house, as if their visit signified a victory over evil and human suffering. While I was overjoyed to see so many people take interest in the history of the Holocaust and to expand their knowledge of the atrocities that occurred, the peace builder and educator in me saw a missed opportunity for the museum to continue the education by adding some sort of memorium or exhibit about genocide in general and educate about genocides that have occurred since the Holocaust, despite the Western world’s repeated claim of ‘never again.’ I don’t mean to be critical of the museum, because I thought it was powerful and intentional in all aspects, but I couldn’t help but feel that some sort of global anchoring was missing.


Anywho, I was also able to elbow my way through the Van Gogh museum and catch a peek at the iconic I amsterdam sign outside of the Rijksmuseum. The Van Gogh museum was incredibly crowded, but I enjoyed putting the breadth of his work into the perspective of the length of his career, which was relatively short and cut short by his suicide. A depressing life story indeed, but an impressive and inspiring portfolio that filled up two buildings of galleries.

On my last day there, I hopped on one of those tourist buses and spent the day being equally annoyed with everyone who was also on the bus and highly entertained by everyone who was on the bus. The tour took us out to Zandaam to see some historic windmills. They were cool and also, I couldn't quite leave the Netherlands without seeing a windmill of course!







Amsterdam was great to just wander around, walking by the canals and wandering in and out of shops and galleries. I’m glad I had the chance to go when it was still warm out and had so much free time to weave around the city.

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

My outerwear is irrelevant here

I have heard the cries of my impatient readership (ahem, Tom), who has had to resort to phone conversations in order to receive a full update of my Swedish life. I do apologize for my absence, but I’m not too sorry because I have a lot of shit to do. As a compromise, here is a short, mostly pictorial, update. The most shocking update is that, as of today, October 4th, I feel that my outerwear is already irrelevant in this place! Nighttime temperatures are falling down to 5 or 6 degrees (Oh yes, I’ve decided to convert myself to celsius since fahrenheit is a silly invention that a majority of the world does not understand. But for those who are not on this same crusade, it’s in the 30s! Aka brr!). Anywho, so the light fall jackets I brought, even complemented by a nice sweater, are useless in the face of this quickly onset chill factor. Time to go shopping!

To address my absence from the blogosphere with a semblance of a snapshot update, I have been traveling (posts in the works for Amsterdam and a cruise of the Baltics to Helsinki and Tallinn) and additionally, I have this thing called a master’s paper that I MUST finish. Not to mention fellowship applications and classwork etc. etc. and facetiming with Lucy. Things have been busy (not Boston busy aka I’m not losing my mind), but I regretfully admit that crafting these musings for your entertainment have temporarily fallen to the bottom of my priority list. To make up for it, I’ve included some pictures of the beautiful fall foliage, including a rainbow I saw this morning outside my apartment complex. Stay posted for my reflections on the first of many European travels and…maybe a guest blog from Nance who’s coming to visit next week!

Peace and love,
Swedish Jamie

Fall scenery outside of my home 
Wow! 
a sunset and a cool tree
lingon berries
the rainbow! 
fall from the library steps